If you are experiencing wear on the outer edges of the tires on the front axle of your trailer then this points to signs of the tires being under-inflated or the spindles are bent. When filling trailer tires, you need to fill them to the max psi listed on the sidewall while cold. This is going to allow for proper tread wear and for the tire to maintain the max weight capacity.
If you have checked the psi of the tires and can ensure that they are filled accordingly, I would also make sure... view full answer...
The first thing you are going to want to test is the brake controller. Sever the brake output wire behind the back of the controller a few inches. Then use a circuit tester or multimeter like # PT89ZR to test the end coming out of the controller. If the controller output setting is set to the highest level, the tester should show approximately 12 volts.
If it does, reconnect the wire. If it does not continue testing to see if the output fluctuates or changes at all. If it does change or... view full answer...
A pulse preventer would be needed if when towing with the hazards on, the display on the brake controller also flashes. This could then potentially be felt in the trailer brakes if the brake controller is set to a high level. It would not help with the turn signal and brake light problem.
In situations like this, it's best to start with the easiest possible solutions. First, I recommend cleaning the connectors on both the truck and the trailer. Any dirt or corrosion could cause a problem.... view full answer...
I spoke with my contact at Tekonsha about the problem you are having with the Prodigy P2 Brake Controller, # 90885, on your 2001 Ford F-250. He stated that you should check the black wire on the 3035 harness as that is the wire that provides power to the brake controller. If it is not receiving power, then there is a problem somewhere in the vehicle wiring. It could be a tow package fuse that is not installed or needs to be replaced. Your owners manual or power distribution box should have... view full answer...
This may seem like a silly question but are you using a brake controller? A 7-Way alone will not provide power to the trailer brakes without the use of a brake controller. If you do need a brake controller then I recommend the Tekonsha P2, # 90885, and wiring harness # 3034-P to plug into the factory port on your truck.
The P2 is a popular controller because it is easy to set up, easy to use, and is reliable. I have included a link to the installation details for you to view for the wiring... view full answer...
The P.L. code on your Tekonsha Primus IQ # TK90160 means there is a power interruption while the brake pedal is being depressed. This actually happens fairly often and all you need to do is check your ground connections and power supply wire.
You will want to make sure the ground is connected to bare, unpainted metal, but a quick and easy way to test is to connect the ground directly to the negative terminal on the battery. If this fixes the issue, it's definitely the ground connection... view full answer...
If the arm of your # RP61412 Sidewinder is at an angle relative to the head of your fifth wheel hitch the issue is the wedge of the Sidewinder that is supposed to be locking the arm to the hitch head is not doing it's job. I would not recommend you tow anymore until you address this issue. You could be using the wrong wedge for your hitch or it needs to be orientated properly.
Check out the installation instructions I attached, around page 7 there are instructions on wedge activation.
I... view full answer...
The blue wire for the Tekonsha Prodigy P2 Brake Controller # 90885 carries the brake output circuit to the 7-Way. When you don't have power on this wire it isn't typically related to a bad or blown fuse.
If you aren't getting any power on this wire the first thing I recommend doing is simply checking how you're actually testing the controller. The Prodigy P2 is a proportional unit meaning it will send back power in correspondence to the vehicle's deceleration when stepping on the brake... view full answer...
It is a little strange that you are experiencing more chucking with a cushioned dual-jaw hitch that you were with a slide bar hitch with an non-cushioned head. But it could be because the head of the Q16 pivots on a large pin and could be moving a little bit back and forth causing the issues. But there are other things to check just to be sure.
If the jaw is not closed and locked all the way or if you are high hitched then it would have that symptom but then again the trailer would also... view full answer...
Take a look at the video I have linked to the right that shows how the LED trailer tail light # STL90RB is supposed to light up. The outer LEDs light up bright when the brakes are applied. If this is how your lights are lighting up then they are functioning normally.
But it sounds like you have one that is functioning normal and one that is functioning opposite of how it should be. The center of the light is the running light and the outer LEDs are the brake and turn signal.
On the... view full answer...
You can install an aftermarket brake controller on your truck, but there is not one available that will install in the dash of your vehicle. Ford does not allow the manufacturer of their OEM controller to produce an aftermarket version.
I would check all of the wiring, especially at the connector at the rear of the truck, before going to the dealer or purchasing a new brake controller. There is a possibility that a loose connection is causing your ITBC to malfunction.
If you decide to... view full answer...
Having the inside edges of your tires wear more quickly than the rest of the tread could have a few different causes. Trailer axles are arched, so that when the trailer is loaded, the tire contact patches sit fully on the ground. If the axle is overloaded, the axle can flex, placing the inside edges of the tires more in contact with the pavement than the center or outer edge of the tread. As you mentioned, it's also possible that the axle is bent. You'll also want to make sure that the... view full answer...
Since the axle is already mounted below the springs, an over-under conversion kit like the # K71-385-00 would not be helpful.
Going with taller spring hangers (see link) might be an option, however keep in mind that changing the suspension geometry of your fifth wheel trailer might alter its ride characteristics and make it more prone to trailer sway. Additionally, changing the height might reduce the clearance between the top of your truck bed side rails and the bottom of your trailer... view full answer...
I am assuming you are speaking of the 7-way trailer connector.
Use a circuit tester like part #PTW2993 on the pin in the 11:00 position on the trailer connector. If you do not have voltage on that pin while the headlights or running lights are on, you most likely have a blown fuse.
The lid of your fuse box should have a legend showing which fuses protect which circuit. This information should also be provided in your owner's manual. The fuses might not necessarily be located in the main... view full answer...
Good thinking trying the boat on another vehicle, that's a simple way to troubleshoot that most folks don't think about. You've pretty effectively ruled out the boat as being the problem.
I'd begin by relocating the point where the white wire with the ring terminal from the converter box attaches to the vehicle. Make sure you're connecting to clean, bare metal with no undercoat or corrosion. If you've grounded the circuit to the chassis (instead of the frame) putting the ground screw through... view full answer...
The Hydrastar actuator # HBA-10 should be grounded to both the trailer frame and through the trailer connector. Make sure the grounds are clean and free of corrosion.
Since your actuator is not cycling, this could mean that there is an electrical problem or a malfunction with the motor, or even a problem with the brake controller. I have included a picture of how the unit should be wired up. Any corrosion could be a cause of the problem. Make sure that the trailer and vehicle connectors... view full answer...
It sounds like you may have a short on one of the circuits. I would first recommend checking the connection on your vehicle wiring harness just to be sure that there isn't an issue with the connection there; make sure that it is clean and free from corrosion. If there is any sign of rust or damage to the harness this might be giving you a bad connection the running lights and right directional and consequently it should be replaced. You should also take a few seconds and use a circuit tester... view full answer...
It sounds like the interior lights on your trailer are powered through the 12 volt circuit on your Ford's 7-way. So, start by testing to make sure that pin is active. On a standard RV style 7-way, this is located at the 1 o'clock position. I've attached a diagram for visual reference. Using a tester like # PK12741 would be the easiest.
You could also simply have a case of corrosion on/in the connectors that is preventing the +12V auxiliary power from reaching the trailer. If this is the... view full answer...
The early integrated brake controllers, like on your 2006 model, were buggy and had a lot of problems. Most of our customers end up disconnecting them and installing a traditional brake controller. This will require a computer re-flash at your dealership. If not, the truck computer will still look for the factory brake controller and you will have a check engine light. It is not the 7-Way on your truck. If the 7-Way was the problem, you would not get voltage at the 5:00 pin when you manually... view full answer...
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